The life of a Parmigiano Reggiano cheesemaker follows a strict rhythm, with each day beginning at dawn, long before the sun rises. The early morning hours, when the countryside is still steeped in silence, are dedicated to preparing the milk an essential element in creating Parmigiano Reggiano, a cheese celebrated for its quality and centuries-old tradition.
At first light, the cheesemaker arrives at the dairy to receive fresh milk collected the previous evening, which has rested in large basins to allow the cream to rise naturally. This evening milk is then combined with the richer, fattier morning milk in large copper vats, where the transformation magic begins. With slow, precise movements, the cheesemaker adds natural rennet and gradually heats the milk, carefully stirring until curds begin to form.
What follows is an intense and delicate process. Using a special tool called a “spino,” the cheesemaker and assistants break the curd into tiny granules, resembling grains of rice. These granules are then cooked at a controlled temperature to reach the ideal consistency. After cooking, the cheese granules settle at the bottom of the vat, where they are gathered with a fine cloth to form the large wheels of Parmigiano Reggiano we know. Each wheel is then wrapped in linen bands and placed in molds, where it takes on its characteristic round shape.
But the work doesn’t end there. After creating the wheels, they must be salted by immersing them in water and salt baths for several weeks. They are then closely monitored over months of aging, with each detail checked to ensure every wheel develops the intense aromas and complex flavors typical of Parmigiano Reggiano. “The work of a cheesemaker requires a lot of attention,” says Mattia Rossi, the cheesemaker at Caseificio Croce. It is this meticulous care, along with dedication and respect for a tradition passed down through generations, that truly makes the difference.
